@ Pex767
ใจเย็น ๆ นะครับ เท่าที่จำได้รถที่ใช้อยู่ตอนนี้เป็น NC1 ปี 2006 ใช่ไหมครับ ... ดังนั้นถึงปัจจุบันนี้จะมีอายุการใช้งานประมาณ 7 ปี
การบำรุงรักษาโดยปกติที่ผมทำอยู่ก็คือ แบบ Preventive Maintenace โดยพิจารณาจากระยะทางที่วิ่ง(เลขกิโลเมตร)หรือระยะเวลา(เดือน-ปี) อย่างใดอย่างหนึ่งที่ถึงก่อน ก็จะทำการซ่อมบำรุงไปตามคู่มือฯ (เหมือนรถปกติทั่วไปครับ)
ตัวอย่างการดูแลรักษาซ่อมบำรุง mazda mx-5 ผมจำไม่ได้ว่า copy มาจากที่ไหน แต่เบื้องต้นก็ใช้ได้ดีทีเดียวครับ
มีความสุขทั้งคนทั้งรถครับ
Regular Maintenance First a quick revue on maintenance items and frequency.
Oil and filter every 3,000-4,000 miles.
Rotate tires every 6,000-8,000 miles (every other oil change).
4 wheel alignment every 15,000 miles.
Stock air filter every 15,000 miles.
Wiper inserts/blades every 15,000 miles.
I change my spark plugs every 15,000 miles. (Stock plugs are good for about 20,000 miles.)
30,000 Mile Maintenance Let's look at the 30,000 mile maintenance.
Include tune up, fuel filter, brake/clutch fluid flush and coolant flush.
If the car has stock 80w-90 weight lube, I also change the transmission and differential fluids. Change to red line and replace every 60,000.
I have not seen the need, or had any reason to use gas, or oil additives, but I hear they are a real money maker!
Note: It's been found in racing applications, the Torsion differential had problems with metal fragments. The cure was to change the fluid after the first 100 miles or so. Not bad advice for any new car, I would change the transmission fluid at this time also.
Ignition wires, before 45,000 miles.
60,000 Mile Maintenance This brings us to the 60,000 mile maintenance. The "Big One". Assuming all maintenance has been done on the car to date, this is what to expect.
A full tune-up and fluid change, including the brake and clutch fluid.
Suspension and brakes should be checked. (A good time to think of replacing those old shocks!)
Four wheel alignment.
All the belts. If money is tight, the timing belt could wait, but don't wait too long (no more than 75,000). You do stand the risk of being stranded if the belt breaks. If the belt breaks, there should do no further damage to the engine, (this engine is a non interference type) but it will not run.
When the timing belt is replaced, be sure to have the camshafts and crankshaft seals replaced. This is a job for someone that will stand by their work. It is very easy to scratch the surface of the shafts when pulling the old seals out. If this happens, the new seals will leak and could be expensive to repair. Be sure the crankshaft bolt is cleaned, and Loctite is used along with the correct torque.
When the timing belt is being replaced, be sure to have the water pump checked for leakage. The water pump is mounted inside the timing belt area. If the water pump has to be replaced, the timing belt has to be taken off to gain access to the pump. Best to check it when the belt is off the car, if it is leaking, it can be replaced for a lot less labor at this time.
When a timing belt is replaced, the valve cover gasket should also be renewed. (The valve cover has to be removed to replace the belt.)
The timing has to be adjusted after doing a timing belt, so if you have a preferred spec (14 deg, 18 deg) this can be done at this time. Also, if you are running a setting other than stock, be sure the technician working on the car is aware of it, or he may put it back to a stock setting.
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